South Carolina BBQ

Some claim that barbecue originated in South Carolina, but the historical evidence for that is quite thin. What we can proudly say, however, is that the Palmetto State boasts one of the nation’s oldest and most vibrant barbecue traditions. The whole hog cooking style found in the Pee Dee region is perhaps the closest modern representation of how barbecue was prepared during the colonial and antebellum periods. While the specifics and traditions have evolved over the years, the core of South Carolina barbecue — meat cooked low and slow over hardwood coals — has remained unchanged.

The Pee Dee

The Pee Dee region—encompassing the northeastern quarter of South Carolina within the watershed of the Pee Dee River—is one of the last strongholds of whole hog barbecue in the United States. Here, traditional pitmasters rely on open pits constructed from cinder blocks or brick, with an opening at the bottom for shoveling in glowing hardwood coals. Whole hogs are spread out on grates inside the pits and cooked low and slow for 12 hours or more, loosely covered with sheet metal or flat pieces of cardboard.

Throughout most of the cooking process, the pigs are placed skin-side up. Near the end, they’re flipped, and the meat is basted with the region’s signature sauce—a simple yet bold mix of vinegar, salt, black pepper, and enough red pepper to leave a tingling heat on your lips. Once cooked, the meat is pulled from the carcass using tongs, with the leaner cuts from the hams and tenderloin mixed together with the fattier shoulder meat. The result is Pee Dee-style barbecue: exceptionally tender pork with delicate strands infused with tangy, spicy flavors from the wood smoke and sauce.

This style of barbecue traces its roots to the region’s agricultural past, when farm families would occasionally slaughter a hog and cook it over a pit to share with friends and neighbors. Unlike barbecue hubs like Lexington, North Carolina, the Pee Dee has relatively few barbecue restaurants, and some are part-time operations open only a few days a week. The pork is often served with slices of white bread, alongside classic sides like coleslaw and baked beans.

Unique to the Pee Dee region are rice-based dishes such as perloo and chicken bog, which reflect South Carolina’s history as a major rice-growing state. Restaurants like McCabe’s in Manning and Brown’s in Kingstree elevate the experience with full buffets featuring Southern staples such as collard greens, mac and cheese, and more, making them must-visit spots for barbecue enthusiasts.

In South Carolina, barbecue always means pork—whether it’s pulled from a whole hog, chopped from a slow-smoked shoulder, or sliced from a tender ham, it all comes from the pig. Don’t believe it? Try this experiment: take a South Carolinian to a barbecue buffet (you won’t have trouble finding one in the Palmetto State) and ask them to “get you some barbecue.” No matter how full the steam table is with ribs, chicken quarters, or even brisket, they’re bound to return with a plate piled high with pork—unless, of course, they just moved to South Carolina from somewhere like Ohio.

The Midlands

All-you-can-eat barbecue buffets are especially common in the Midlands of South Carolina, an area roughly defined by the eight counties surrounding the state capital, Columbia. While a few spots, like Jackie Hite’s in Leesville and Hite’s in West Columbia, still cook whole hogs, most Midlands barbecue joints focus on shoulders and hams. The tender pork is either chopped into chunks or pulled into long, smoky shreds.

What truly sets Midlands barbecue apart is the sauce, instantly recognizable for its bright yellow color. This distinctive hue comes from a mustard base, and at places like Wise’s in Newberry, the sauce can be almost pure mustard. More often, though, it’s sweetened with brown sugar or honey and given a tangy kick with cider vinegar and black pepper. Outsiders may find the color unusual, but most are won over by the sweet and tangy flavor that pairs perfectly with smoked pork.

The Midlands is also home to South Carolina’s iconic side dish: hash and rice. This savory stew is part of a long Southern tradition that includes Virginia’s and Georgia’s Brunswick stew and Kentucky’s burgoo. Hash originated as a way to use pig heads, livers, and other parts that didn’t go on the pit. You can still find rich, organ meat-laced versions at spots like Big T in Gadsden. However, most modern restaurants make their hash from pork shoulder and sometimes a bit of beef, simmered with onions and a mix of secret seasonings. Many recipes also incorporate mustard-based barbecue sauce, giving the hash its signature golden color and bold flavor.